The Power of Moisture

The impact of the correct moisture balance in coily-textured natural hair cannot be overestimated. As a matter of fact, the answer to some of the most common frustrations in caring for our tresses lead to either a lack of moisture, or the ability of our hair to hang onto it.

This is more crucial than product selection, yet for so many, that is where they turn in order to fix their hair woes. But products can only be effective, if the hair onto which it is applied has a low level of moisture.

The good news? Your hair always gives clues when it needs moisture, and unless she gets her way, she will do things that you don’t like. I’m talking breakage, tangles, inability to hold styles, to name a few. So, then the answer is once you understand the clues and what action to take, most of your natural hair problems will go buh-bye.

Here are some basic principles for retaining moisture in coily hair types:

Shampoo and Conditioner

Wash your hair with shampoo and conditioner. Think of shampoo like an eraser on a chalkboard—it clears the slate. You want the surface of your strands to be clean, so the next product you use can work the way it supposed to. And that next product is conditioner. Conditioner actually seals the moisture in (not oil!)

The shampoo and conditioner are like a married couple. They work as a team to improve how the hair looks and feels. For this reason, use a shampoo and conditioner SET. The reason manufacturers make them in sets, is because they have pH balance between the two products.

There are literally hundreds of shampoo and conditioner sets, so it is hard to recommend just one. But pick one that is “moisturizing” or for “dry hair”. It should say that on the label. Look for “sulfate-free”, “paraben-free”, and avoid any petroleum ingredients.

Keep the oil in the kitchen

If you are using shampoo and conditioner for dry hair, a leave-in conditioner, and a styling product like most coilies, you don’t need extra oil. Some conditioners and styling products are infused with oil, and that is enough for most people to increase pliability and softness. Adding oil on top of that serves only to coat the hair strand and not allow moisture into the hair from the air between washes. The result is build up and dry hair. Don’t believe it? If you currently use oil, give it up for 30 days and see what happens. That’s the only way I was convinced.

Seal moisture with a leave-in conditioner

Yes, you can go for a week between washes and have moisturized hair. A leave-in conditioner applied after conditioner and before styling does the trick. Think of your leave-in like you would a babysitter for your kids. The babysitter arrives just as you are heading out. They “fill in” while you are gone, minding the fort (and your kids).

Well, your leave-in does the same thing, keeping moisture level in check until next wash day. To make this trick work like magic, apply the leave-in before you leave the shower. Your hair is still warm from the steam and final rinse, which tends to lift the outer cuticle. This phenomenon helps the leave-in absorb better.

The type of leave-in you use is a personal preference, so you may need to experiment a little. They range from thick and creamy in a jar, to liquid in a spray bottle. To select one, consider:

• Coil Size – Are the size your coils are—like the spring from a ballpoint pen? Try a thicker product. Larger coils, a thinner product may be the ticket.
• Density – If it is very dense, try to use as thin a product as possible which may be easier to distribute.
• Porosity – Does your hair dry quickly and is quick to frizz? You may lean toward higher porosity where the cuticle stays lifted most of the time. This is common with dyed or bleached hair. Try a thicker leave-in. Lower porosity types lean toward a thinner product.

As you can see, there are a number of factors to consider so you may need to experiment with variation of viscosities, but you’ll know when you hit the right one when it doesn’t flake when combined with a styling product or leave a coating that comes off when the hair is dry.

Listen to your hair

Yes, she talks. She complains through giving you tangles, breakage, matting, and other problems. You just need to listen and know how to respond to make her happy again. Don’t get mad at your hair, get curious. Most problems can be resolved by infusing moisture through a good shampoo session, because dry coily hair is so pervasive. When she’s happy she’ll return the favor with softness, movement, and great styling.

Lastly, it’s important to state that your efforts of infusing moisture in your hair are additive. This means that once you are locked in with a regimen that is working, keep doing it consistently. It is the consistency that actually builds the moisture balance and maintains it.

You want to create strands that can stand the test of time–retain length and handle occasional styling options like heat styling and coloring. We all like to have fun with our hair, and when it is in optimum condition it is a lot more forgiving. That is the power of moisture.

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